How to Sight In a Rifle Scope Without a Bore Sight - East Ridge Outdoors

How to Sight In a Rifle Scope Without a Bore Sight

Many shooters assume they need a bore sight to sight in a rifle scope, and while it can be helpful, it's far from necessary.

I've sighted in multiple rifles without one, including my Tikka T3x 30-06, Tikka 7mm Rem Mag, Henry .22 LR, and CZ 457.

The goal is to get on paper at a close distance first, make initial adjustments, and then fine-tune the scope at your desired shooting distance.

Here's the method I use.

What You'll Need

Before heading to the range, gather a few basic items:

  • Rifle and ammunition
  • Paper targets
  • Staple gun
  • Scope adjustment tool (if required)
  • Shooting rest

Shooting Bench setup with Tikka T3x 30-06, front rest, rear bag and an East Ridge 30-06 Ammo box

Some scopes can be adjusted by hand, while others require a flat screwdriver or small hex key.

The most important piece of equipment is a stable shooting platform. The more stable the rifle is, the easier it will be to separate scope adjustments from shooter error.

A front and rear rest is ideal, but at minimum I recommend using a front rest. Even a rolled-up jacket, backpack, or folded blanket is better than trying to sight in a rifle unsupported.

Start Close and Find Paper

Whether you're sighting in a centerfire rifle at 100 yards or a .22 LR at 25 yards, the first goal is simply finding the paper.

To get started, begin shooting at a much shorter distance to the target.

For a centerfire rifle that will eventually be sighted in at 100 yards, I'll start at roughly 25 yards.

For a .22 LR, I'll often start at 10 yards.

By reducing the distance to the target, you dramatically reduce how far the bullet can miss vertically or horizontally.

Tikka T3x 30-06 First shot at 25 yards to make initial scope adjustment

If you still can't find the point of impact, shorten the distance again and fire another shot.

Once you've located the bullet hole, you're ready to make your first adjustment.

Understanding Scope Adjustments

Most hunting scopes adjust in 1/4 MOA increments.

MOA stands for Minute of Angle.

At 100 yards:

  • 1 MOA equals approximately 1 inch

  • 1 click equals 1/4 inch

When you're shooting closer than 100 yards, you'll need to account for the reduced distance when calculating your adjustment.

For example, if you're shooting at 25 yards, you're four times closer to the target than you would be at 100 yards.

Let's say your shot lands:

  • 6 inches low

  • 4 inches right

At 25 yards, that is equivalent to:

  • 24 inches low at 100 yards

  • 16 inches right at 100 yards

Since each click moves the point of impact approximately 1/4 inch at 100 yards, you would need:

  • 96 clicks up

  • 64 clicks left

This sounds like a lot, but large adjustments are completely normal when you're trying to get a new scope on paper.

Making Your First Adjustment

Scope turrets are marked with directional arrows.

The top turret (elevation turret) will typically indicate "Up."

Elevation Turret on a rifle scope

The side turret (windage turret) will indicate "Left" or "Right."

Windage turret on a rifle scope

These markings show how the point of impact will move.

If your bullet is hitting low, rotate the elevation turret in the direction marked "Up."

If your bullet is hitting right, rotate the windage turret toward "Left."

After making the adjustment, fire another shot from close range and see where it lands.

The goal isn't perfection.

You're trying to get close enough to the bullseye that you'll be able to find your impacts once you move back to your intended shooting distance.

If necessary, repeat this process two or three times.

Most of the time you will be close enough after a few adjustments.

Move Back to Your Desired Distance

Once you're hitting near the center of the target at close range, move back to your intended shooting distance.

For hunting rifles, that's often 100 yards. For a rimfire rifle, that could be 25 or 50 yards.

Fire a single shot and locate the point of impact.

Don't be surprised if the bullet lands somewhere different than expected.

You've now changed the angle of the bullet's trajectory and the longer distance allows the bullet to continue traveling further off course.

If you can't find the impact, reduce distance to a midway point and repeat the process.

For example, if you're trying to sight in at 100 yards, try shooting from 50 yards first.

Once you can locate your point of impact, you're ready to begin fine-tuning the scope.

Fine-Tuning the Zero

Now it's time to make precise adjustments.

Measure the distance between your point of impact and your intended point of aim.

Make the necessary scope corrections and fire a two-shot group.

I prefer two shots at this stage because it helps confirm the results aren't caused by shooter error or ammo inconsistencies. 

Once the impacts are where I want them, I'll fire a final three- or five-shot group to verify the rifle is truly sighted in.

Results from shooting Remington 40 gr JHP with my CZ 457 at 50 yards

If needed, I'll make one last small adjustment and repeat the process.

After that, the rifle is ready for the range, the hunt, or whatever comes next.

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